Hilly horizons and shooting stars: a car-free adventure across Coniston and south Cumbria

Boats, trains and buses lead to a hauntingly beautiful side of the Lake District, bursting with wildlife, culture and relics of the past. While dark-sky canoeing makes for a magical nightThe ripples are deep gold in the sunset light as we paddle across…

Boats, trains and buses lead to a hauntingly beautiful side of the Lake District, bursting with wildlife, culture and relics of the past. While dark-sky canoeing makes for a magical night

The ripples are deep gold in the sunset light as we paddle across Coniston Water towards Wild Cat Island. Officially known as Peel Island, this is where the children camp in Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons. The canoe glides between rocks into the hidden harbour with its pebbly beach, and we climb, excited as kids, up through bronze-leaved oaks and tall pines to explore the clifftop clearings.

This morning, I took several trains and a bus, each journey more lovely than the one before, to reach Coniston in the Lake District. Tomorrow I’ll catch a boat to visit Brantwood, once home to the Victorian writer and artist John Ruskin. A champion of art and nature and an early observer of the damage that human activities were doing to the environment, Ruskin might not have approved of all my transport choices. He loved boats, but saw railways as part of industrialisation’s “frenzy of avarice” and complained, with characteristic paternalism, about the “stupid herds of modern tourists” who “let themselves be emptied, like coals from a sack, at Windermere …” Ruskin, writing before cars swarmed across the landscape, recommends hiring “a chaise and pony for a day”.

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Hilly horizons and shooting stars: a car-free adventure across Coniston and south Cumbria

Boats, trains and buses lead to a hauntingly beautiful side of the Lake District, bursting with wildlife, culture and relics of the past. While dark-sky canoeing makes for a magical nightThe ripples are deep gold in the sunset light as we paddle across…

Boats, trains and buses lead to a hauntingly beautiful side of the Lake District, bursting with wildlife, culture and relics of the past. While dark-sky canoeing makes for a magical night

The ripples are deep gold in the sunset light as we paddle across Coniston Water towards Wild Cat Island. Officially known as Peel Island, this is where the children camp in Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons. The canoe glides between rocks into the hidden harbour with its pebbly beach, and we climb, excited as kids, up through bronze-leaved oaks and tall pines to explore the clifftop clearings.

This morning, I took several trains and a bus, each journey more lovely than the one before, to reach Coniston in the Lake District. Tomorrow I’ll catch a boat to visit Brantwood, once home to the Victorian writer and artist John Ruskin. A champion of art and nature and an early observer of the damage that human activities were doing to the environment, Ruskin might not have approved of all my transport choices. He loved boats, but saw railways as part of industrialisation’s “frenzy of avarice” and complained, with characteristic paternalism, about the “stupid herds of modern tourists” who “let themselves be emptied, like coals from a sack, at Windermere …” Ruskin, writing before cars swarmed across the landscape, recommends hiring “a chaise and pony for a day”.

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Twinkle towns: eight great places in the UK for a festive getaway

From Scotland to the South Downs, we celebrate top spots for a sparkling last minute pre-Christmas break – or fun-filled day tripThis spa town in the Derbyshire hills – the joint highest market town in England (a title shared with Alston in Cumbria) – …

From Scotland to the South Downs, we celebrate top spots for a sparkling last minute pre-Christmas break – or fun-filled day trip

This spa town in the Derbyshire hills – the joint highest market town in England (a title shared with Alston in Cumbria) – has beautiful Georgian and Victorian architecture and is surrounded by the Peak District on three sides.

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Twinkle towns: eight great places in the UK for a festive getaway

From Scotland to the South Downs, we celebrate top spots for a sparkling last minute pre-Christmas break – or fun-filled day tripThis spa town in the Derbyshire hills – the joint highest market town in England (a title shared with Alston in Cumbria) – …

From Scotland to the South Downs, we celebrate top spots for a sparkling last minute pre-Christmas break – or fun-filled day trip

This spa town in the Derbyshire hills – the joint highest market town in England (a title shared with Alston in Cumbria) – has beautiful Georgian and Victorian architecture and is surrounded by the Peak District on three sides.

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‘The old town is adorned with twinkling lights’: readers’ favourite Christmas breaks in Europe

Our tipsters revel in Christmas markets, seasonal tipples and live choral performances from Bath to the Black ForestSalzburg’s Christmas markets are among the very best, and there are plenty of them too, with at least 10 main ones across the season. Th…

Our tipsters revel in Christmas markets, seasonal tipples and live choral performances from Bath to the Black Forest

Salzburg’s Christmas markets are among the very best, and there are plenty of them too, with at least 10 main ones across the season. The Salzburg Advent festival (1-17 Dec) at the Great Festival Hall, Residenzplatz, is a memorable show and highly recommended. With snow falling most winters, the city has that beautiful wintry romantic atmosphere. And best of all is a horse-drawn carriage ride through the snowy landscape, wrapped in a blanket, with a hot drink in hand. Especially perfect for a couples getaway.
Colin Snoad

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‘Crisp air and wildlife – fantastic’: readers’ top tips for UK winter outdoors activities

From watching grey seals and migratory birds to fossil hunting and cliff jumping, our tipsters share their coolest experiencesExperience the unique beauty of the New Forest national park on a winter cycling adventure. With fewer crowds, you can enjoy p…

From watching grey seals and migratory birds to fossil hunting and cliff jumping, our tipsters share their coolest experiences

Experience the unique beauty of the New Forest national park on a winter cycling adventure. With fewer crowds, you can enjoy peaceful rides through ancient woodlands and across heathlands. Remember to dress in warm layers, check your bike for winter readiness, and bring some hot tea or coffee in a Thermos to savour in the midst of your journey. Wildlife, serene landscapes and crisp winter air make this a fantastic outdoor activity in the UK.
Magsy Griffin

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On Yorkshire shores: dinosaurs, birds and beaches on a wild autumn tour

A car-free, off-season trip based on new itineraries for visitors reveals Jurassic period fossils, teeming seabirds, genteel villas, pubs and enormous beaches“Look,” said Liam Herringshaw, pointing at a melon-sized bulge in the layers of rock fronting …

A car-free, off-season trip based on new itineraries for visitors reveals Jurassic period fossils, teeming seabirds, genteel villas, pubs and enormous beaches

“Look,” said Liam Herringshaw, pointing at a melon-sized bulge in the layers of rock fronting the prom in Scarborough. “There’s where a five-toed dinosaur walked 160 million years ago.”

It was probably an 11-tonne cetiosaurus (whale lizard), he said, digging from his bag a picture of a long-necked dino with a small head and trunk-like legs. Toe shapes are visible on the bulge’s outer edge, which means this would have been one of the creature’s back feet (front feet had a different toe arrangement).

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A local’s guide to Vilnius, Lithuania: the best bars, culture and bargain hotels

We lift the lid on one of Europe’s best value cities with a tour of old-school canteens, prize-winning communist blocks, and a bar with Jesus on a carpetThis year has been a good one for Vilnius. The Lithuanian capital celebrated its 700th birthday on …

We lift the lid on one of Europe’s best value cities with a tour of old-school canteens, prize-winning communist blocks, and a bar with Jesus on a carpet

This year has been a good one for Vilnius. The Lithuanian capital celebrated its 700th birthday on 25 January 2023, and a few months later it was named the European Union’s green capital for 2025. Perhaps most symbolically – as Lithuania continues to firmly reject its Soviet past and align itself closer with the west – Vilnius played host to the Nato summit in July.

In short, there’s a lot for the Vilnese to be proud of and happy about. Given the progress the city has made since I first fell in love with it almost 10 years ago, local people want to share their joy and sense of accomplishment with visitors seeking a good time. The city even recently established a “night office” to ensure a night out is as enjoyable, friendly and safe as possible.

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Six perfect unsung city breaks in Europe – from Ghent to Naples

No famous capitals, fewer tourists, loads to see, excellent food – and all a train ride awayThe Netherlands’ second city is a winner for those weary of its more famous (and oversubscribed) rival. Sure, there’s water – it’s Europe’s largest port, after …

No famous capitals, fewer tourists, loads to see, excellent food – and all a train ride away

The Netherlands’ second city is a winner for those weary of its more famous (and oversubscribed) rival. Sure, there’s water – it’s Europe’s largest port, after all – with rivers, canals and harbours at every turn. But this sprawling metropolis doesn’t yield its pleasures as easily as Amsterdam, largely because second world war bombing destroyed most of the historic centre. Its pioneering postwar architecture is, however, what makes “Manhattan on the Maas” so fascinating.

Treasures include the 1970s Cube Houses designed by Piet Blom, the landmark cable-stayed Erasmus Bridge, the 1960 retro-futuristic Euromast and eclectic buildings in the leafily landscaped Museumpark. Alongside design museum Het Nieuwe Instituut and the Kunsthal gallery, a must-visit is The Depot, an ambitious €94m bowl-shaped “storage facility” for the city’s art collection, its rooftop cafe boasting panoramic views. Equally compelling is Delfshaven, which escaped bombing, and is now home to waterside pubs, a microbrewery and tucked-away restaurants.

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Six perfect unsung city breaks in Europe – from Ghent to Naples

No famous capitals, fewer tourists, loads to see, excellent food – and all a train ride awayThe Netherlands’ second city is a winner for those weary of its more famous (and oversubscribed) rival. Sure, there’s water – it’s Europe’s largest port, after …

No famous capitals, fewer tourists, loads to see, excellent food – and all a train ride away

The Netherlands’ second city is a winner for those weary of its more famous (and oversubscribed) rival. Sure, there’s water – it’s Europe’s largest port, after all – with rivers, canals and harbours at every turn. But this sprawling metropolis doesn’t yield its pleasures as easily as Amsterdam, largely because second world war bombing destroyed most of the historic centre. Its pioneering postwar architecture is, however, what makes “Manhattan on the Maas” so fascinating.

Treasures include the 1970s Cube Houses designed by Piet Blom, the landmark cable-stayed Erasmus Bridge, the 1960 retro-futuristic Euromast and eclectic buildings in the leafily landscaped Museumpark. Alongside design museum Het Nieuwe Instituut and the Kunsthal gallery, a must-visit is The Depot, an ambitious €94m bowl-shaped “storage facility” for the city’s art collection, its rooftop cafe boasting panoramic views. Equally compelling is Delfshaven, which escaped bombing, and is now home to waterside pubs, a microbrewery and tucked-away restaurants.

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